We eventually made our way to Jongno-gu, to look around some art galleries. That’s where I stumbled upon a print shop bursting with Korean dojang and tiger folk art. I’ve been obsessed with those fierce, wild-eyed tigers forever - they symbolise protection, courage, and good fortune. So naturally, I had to get one. I mean, who couldn’t use a little extra good luck… especially after the whole suitcase saga.

We spent the afternoon mesmerized by ceramic shops filled with hundreds of moon jars - those perfect white porcelain vases that somehow manage to look both simple and holy. Don’t be fooled though - crafting one of those beauties takes serious skill.

Later, Emma booked us at T Nomad Laboratory, one of the most tranquil dining experiences I’ve ever had. Like, actual “art installation meets meditation retreat” levels of peace. Which, if you know me, is… not my usual energy. 🤣 But wow, I left feeling inspired - maybe one day my own work will be displayed as beautifully as that meal. 🙏

We ended the day wandering through a street market and found the cosiest Korean restaurant for dinner. I even managed to survive as a vegetarian 🌱 Major shoutout to Emma for taking out the surprise mussels and meat that landed in my tofu stew, maybe google translate isn’t always the best.

The suitcase saga has finally ended! my bag arrived safely at Sam’s sister’s hotel. Mission for tomorrow: rescue my belongings and ditch these stinky clothes. Eeeek!

Day 5 — Pottery, Pancakes, and Pure Joy

Today was one for the pottery nerds - my people! We spent the morning at the National Museum of Korea, where I gleefully “geeked out” over centuries-old ceramics.

I learned so much fascinating information about Korean pottery history - like how celadon with inlaid designs was all the rage in the Goryeo dynasty (12th–13th c.), while glossy white porcelain took over in the Joseon periods. Wars, invasions, and cobalt shortages all shaped the evolving styles, leading to those dreamy iron-painted pieces I’ve completely fallen for.

Next up: a pilgrimage to Gwangjang Market in Jongno-gu, made famous by Street Food: Asia on Netflix. And yes, there were literal signs everywhere reminding us. 😂 The place was electric - aunties cooking kimchi pancakes, steam billowing, spicy Tteokbokki bubbling away. It felt real, homey, and so delicious.

We devoured kimchi pancakes, Gimbap, Tteokbokki, and something else I sadly can’t pronounce or remember — but wow, it was good. Then came Hotteok, a sweet syrupy pan-fried delight that I may have eaten… twice.

We ended the day at the Dongdaemun Design Plaza, a sleek architectural marvel that seamlessly blends modern minimalism with cultural tradition. The design museum inside was stunning, all futuristic curves.

Day 6 — Into the Hills: Icheon & the Master of Moonjars 🌕

Today we left Seoul behind and hit the road to Yes Park in Icheon, the pottery capital of Korea. Driving into the area felt like entering another world - lush green mountains, chirping crickets, and a quiet calm that practically forces you to relax. The soundtrack? Gentle elevator music playing around the pottery village. No joke. It was weirdly perfect.

Our first stop: a massive moonjar installation and the studio of legendary ceramic artist Shin Chul (@shinchul_moonjar). Friends, I have seen the moon jar. The. Biggest. Ever. 🌝

Shin welcomed us like old friends, showing us his magazine features and explaining his journey through a translation app — such a wholesome human moment. He spoke about a creative slump that lasted five years after receiving harsh criticism in Japan, and how rediscovering a pine tree rekindled his inspiration. I got goosebumps. You could feel his passion in every piece.

He’s been making moon jars since 2005 - over 1,000 pieces and counting - and I swear no one has ever done it with such heart. His kiln, his workspace, his story… it all reminded me why I love this craft so deeply.

Although I was nervous about travelling so far from home, meeting my lovely friends (Sam, Kelly & Emma) and exploring this area together, helped calm my nerves a lot! This place is incredibly friendly and relaxed, and I felt so much more at ease and ready to start my Onggi Pottery Residency.

Heather Barette Ceramics

Location

Jersey,

Channel Islands