Icheon, Korea
Toroo Studios, Ye’s Park
South Korea
👗 Day 2: Seoul Fashion Reality Check, Accidental Shopping Spree & Geopolitics Spiral
I headed straight to Seongsu-dong, apparently Seoul’s trendiest neighborhood. I, however, was wearing teal joggers and a pancake-stained T-shirt. When I showed Ryan this outfit at home, he said, “You’re traveling in that?!” Reader: I was.
Seoul fashion is monochrome chic, with maybe one rebellious pop of color in shoes. I was… not monochrome chic. After receiving several funny looks, I ducked into a shop and emerged £45 poorer but emotionally healed, with socks, jeans, tops, accessories—the whole personality reset.
Next: Gangnam for a Korean facial. I arrived very excited for glass skin only to discover I’d booked it for November 7th, not October. So no dewy glow for me - just confusion and acceptance.
On the way back, I got a public safety alert on my phone and panicked like someone who’s never left their hometown. Cue an evening deep dive into Korean-Chinese relations, kimchi diplomacy, air pollution politics, and North Korea alliances. Casual travel research.
Dinner was my first proper Korean meal: a spring onion pancake and a Terra beer that tasted suspiciously like Heineken. I felt proud, calm, and slightly cultured.
🥹 Day 3: Friends Arrive, Fake-Old Villages & Pottery Fate
Day 3 was the emotional highlight: my friends arrived!! Emma came all the way from Singapore and casually brought a pandan chiffon cake in her luggage like this was totally normal behaviour. I hadn’t seen these friends in over two and a half years since ceramics school in Barcelona, so the reunion was soft, wholesome, and slightly teary.
We went to Eunpyeong-gu Hanok Village expecting ancient history, only to find out it was built in 2014. Still gorgeous, though - traditional architecture, mountain backdrop, peaceful vibes in the middle of the city chaos.
Then we headed to Mangwon Hangang Park for sunset, met up with more ceramics friends, and shared that pandan cake drizzled with gula melaka. I’m not exaggerating when I say this cake changed my life. Fluffy, light, perfection.
Dinner was at a traditional Korean restaurant where we tried beer mixed with soju (dangerous, delicious, slightly concerning). Afterward, we wandered through a cool, edgy neighborhood, and Emma casually spotted moon jars through a second-floor window. Turns out - it was one of my favorite potters - Studio The Finale. A true ceramics nerd destiny moment.
🇰🇷 Seoul Diaries: Days 1–3 – Lost Luggage, Fashion Panic & Moon Jar Magic
✈️ Day 1: Airport Glamour, Jet Lag Delirium & The Great Suitcase Disappearance
Day 1 began with me making a new airport friend and somehow blagging my way into a ridiculously fancy lounge at Doha Airport. Honestly, it felt like Kew Gardens but with airplanes and better snacks. A little tea, a nice chat, and suddenly I was less of a sleepy, hungover travel goblin.
The second flight was mostly a blur of unconsciousness, punctuated by a very cringey movie. But nothing could prepare me for landing in Korea and seeing my name on a sign… because my suitcase hadn’t arrived. 😭
So there I was, in the same clothes since Saturday, my eSIM refusing to function, navigating Seoul via screenshots like it was 2012. After wandering in the rain like a confused raccoon, I finally found my hotel. A shower and bed never felt so luxurious. Ten hours of sleep later, I woke up officially on Korean time and ready to romanticize my life.
Exploring Seoul
Seoul Searching — Days 4–6: From Myeongdong Mayhem to Moonjar Magic
Day 4 — Myeongdong Madness & Korean Tiger Treasure Hunts 🐅
Kicked off the morning in the bustling labyrinth of Myeongdong, where every corner seemed to shout, “Buy me! I’m cute and cheap!”.
Then came the holy grail of baked goods - salt bread. I’d never had it before, its buttery, salty perfection. 🥐💫
We eventually made our way to Jongno-gu, to look around some art galleries. That’s where I stumbled upon a print shop bursting with Korean dojang and tiger folk art. I’ve been obsessed with those fierce, wild-eyed tigers forever - they symbolise protection, courage, and good fortune. So naturally, I had to get one. I mean, who couldn’t use a little extra good luck… especially after the whole suitcase saga.
We spent the afternoon mesmerized by ceramic shops filled with hundreds of moon jars - those perfect white porcelain vases that somehow manage to look both simple and holy. Don’t be fooled though - crafting one of those beauties takes serious skill.
Later, Emma booked us at T Nomad Laboratory, one of the most tranquil dining experiences I’ve ever had. Like, actual “art installation meets meditation retreat” levels of peace. Which, if you know me, is… not my usual energy. 🤣 But wow, I left feeling inspired - maybe one day my own work will be displayed as beautifully as that meal. 🙏
We ended the day wandering through a street market and found the cosiest Korean restaurant for dinner. I even managed to survive as a vegetarian 🌱 Major shoutout to Emma for taking out the surprise mussels and meat that landed in my tofu stew, maybe google translate isn’t always the best.
The suitcase saga has finally ended! my bag arrived safely at Sam’s sister’s hotel. Mission for tomorrow: rescue my belongings and ditch these stinky clothes. Eeeek!
Day 5 — Pottery, Pancakes, and Pure Joy
Today was one for the pottery nerds - my people! We spent the morning at the National Museum of Korea, where I gleefully “geeked out” over centuries-old ceramics.
I learned so much fascinating information about Korean pottery history - like how celadon with inlaid designs was all the rage in the Goryeo dynasty (12th–13th c.), while glossy white porcelain took over in the Joseon periods. Wars, invasions, and cobalt shortages all shaped the evolving styles, leading to those dreamy iron-painted pieces I’ve completely fallen for.
Next up: a pilgrimage to Gwangjang Market in Jongno-gu, made famous by Street Food: Asia on Netflix. And yes, there were literal signs everywhere reminding us. 😂 The place was electric - aunties cooking kimchi pancakes, steam billowing, spicy Tteokbokki bubbling away. It felt real, homey, and so delicious.
We devoured kimchi pancakes, Gimbap, Tteokbokki, and something else I sadly can’t pronounce or remember — but wow, it was good. Then came Hotteok, a sweet syrupy pan-fried delight that I may have eaten… twice.
We ended the day at the Dongdaemun Design Plaza, a sleek architectural marvel that seamlessly blends modern minimalism with cultural tradition. The design museum inside was stunning, all futuristic curves.
Day 6 — Into the Hills: Icheon & the Master of Moonjars 🌕
Today we left Seoul behind and hit the road to Yes Park in Icheon, the pottery capital of Korea. Driving into the area felt like entering another world - lush green mountains, chirping crickets, and a quiet calm that practically forces you to relax. The soundtrack? Gentle elevator music playing around the pottery village. No joke. It was weirdly perfect.
Our first stop: a massive moonjar installation and the studio of legendary ceramic artist Shin Chul (@shinchul_moonjar). Friends, I have seen the moon jar. The. Biggest. Ever. 🌝
Shin welcomed us like old friends, showing us his magazine features and explaining his journey through a translation app — such a wholesome human moment. He spoke about a creative slump that lasted five years after receiving harsh criticism in Japan, and how rediscovering a pine tree rekindled his inspiration. I got goosebumps. You could feel his passion in every piece.
He’s been making moon jars since 2005 - over 1,000 pieces and counting - and I swear no one has ever done it with such heart. His kiln, his workspace, his story… it all reminded me why I love this craft so deeply.
Although I was nervous about travelling so far from home, meeting my lovely friends (Sam, Kelly & Emma) and exploring this area together, helped calm my nerves a lot! This place is incredibly friendly and relaxed, and I felt so much more at ease and ready to start my Onggi Pottery Residency.